 Square Style
Unlike the organic designs, these geometric variations are painted on dry lampshades using combinations of tan, brown, and blue. Dip a soft-bristle brush in paint and a little water, then dab it on a paper towel to remove extra liquid. “It’s a very controlled technique,” Nail explains, “almost like dry-brushing.”
Both designs start with lightly applied paint, then successive layers establish darker areas. To reinforce a spot, allow it to dry, then go back if necessary. Nail also recommends painting one color all around the shade first (starting with the lightest color) to get a feel for the balance of hues.
Even if you measure for placement of your design, the shapes are still spontaneous. “The rectangles are not true,” Nail says. She drew some lines purposely askew to accommodate the shade’s tapered dimensions. As you paint your version, let the shape of the shade help define your design, and have some fun with these fundamental shapes.
Gather Your Supplies
- Hard-back, fine-weave lampshade
- Extra-fine DecoColor opaque paint marker (140-S Black) or comparable paint pen such as Krylon (not a permanent marking pen)
- Brushes: Royal Soft Grip SG 250 #6 and #10 round-tip nylon head and SG 157 #10 shader square (or any brush suited for acrylic paints)
DecoArt Americana acrylic crafts paint: Sable Brown (B) and
Toffee (T)
- Delta Ceramcoat acrylic crafts paint: Medium Victorian Teal (MVT)
- Plaid FolkArt acrylic crafts paint: Sky Blue (SB)
- Trim as long as the circumference of the shade’s bottom edge (optional)
- Hot-glue gun (optional)
Scattered Rectangles
START TO FINISH
Using the black opaque paint marker and starting at the seam, draw large rectangles randomly around the shade, sketching the four sides then rounding the corners.
Fill
in with smaller rectangles and circles,
being careful to vary the patterns on adjacent rectangles.
Apply paint to a dry shade. Load a little water on a #10 shader brush, then dab on a paper towel to blot excess liquid. Dip in T and dab lightly where desired on all rectangles. Allow to dry, then brush on more T, mixed with less water, for a more opaque look. Using the same technique, apply SB and MVT. Finally, use a #10 round brush to fill in the circles with B. Allow to dry.
If desired, affix trim to the shade’s bottom edge with hot glue.
 Measured Rectangles
START TO FINISH
Measure the shade’s top and bottom circumferences. Divide by an even number of desired rectangles (so two color blocks don’t end up side by side) to determine the width of each shape. Using a pencil, indicate tick marks at that width around the top and bottom of the shade. Using the black opaque paint marker, connect the tick marks at the top and bottom with vertical lines.
Decide how many rows of rectangles you want from top to bottom (this pattern has three). With a pencil, mark lines horizontally down the shade along the back seam (e.g., to make three stripes on an 18-inch vertical shade, mark every 6 inches). With the black opaque paint marker, draw rough horizontal lines around the shade to create an irregular grid.
Fill in each block with smaller rectangles and circles, purposely skewing some lines if necessary to account for tapered edges.
Paint shapes as in Scattered Rectangles, alternating sections of SB and MVT. First, apply each color with a damp brush and let dry. Then paint accents with the same solid color, mixed with less water for a more opaque look. Paint the circles SB.
If desired, affix trim to the shade’s bottom edge with hot glue.
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